Day 29 – Sarria to Portomarin

I woke up this morning to rain. And it rained and drizzled for the better part of the day.

I started out with my Altus poncho on, but once the heavy rain stopped, I removed it and walked in my shirt and vest. The problem with any rainwear is condensation on the inside making it equally wet inside as outside.


Again it was a day of many small farm villages, necessitating cow plops hopping, only difference today was they were very, very wet.


At one point I got angry with another peregrina in a cafe and delivered some cross words when she burst in front of me in line and ordered herself a beer. She didn’t understand a word I was saying but I’m sure she understood my tone. But when she sat down at a table and rolled up up pants leg, it was obvious by the size of her knee that she was injured.

I felt badly about my short temper and was able to speak with her later on the trail through the person she was limping along next to. I told her to ice the knee and wrap it with a bandage. A Camino lesson for me – don’t be so quick to jump to conclusions, this poor hurt peregrina obviously needed that beer more than I needed to be waited on next.

So went my day; it seemed as though every pilgrim on the trail today passed me up. I even missed a yellow arrow and continued walking the wrong way for a bit. Funny thing though, this small voice inside told me I was going the wrong way before too much distance was covered and I retraced my steps back to the Camino.


I enjoy walking in the rain, the forests look so magical when it is misty or raining. Today I walked 13.81 miles/22.4 kms in 6.5 hours including stops.



11 responses to “Day 29 – Sarria to Portomarin

  1. Arlene, I got lost too around that section leading to Portomarin – the markings are very confused around there.

    I take it your knee is better today?

    Lovely to see those steps from the side angle, by the way!



  2. Bill,

    The knee isn’t better just wearing the support brace and it seems to help. Those steps were horrible on my knee but I made it down, even in the rain!


  3. Arlene, oh those steps! I remember them well. I walked up them as I arrived in Portomarin.
    I spent more time dodging the 120 school students who started in Sarria at the same time as me, rather than the cow plops.
    Hope the knee is okay from now on. At least you don’t have those very steep climbs like O Cebreiro.
    Walk as if you are being carried on angels’ wings.


  4. Arlene, did you stay at A. Ultreia, I did, lovely single room. Take care of that knee, all I can suggest is to go zigzag on a downhill as flat as you can. More steps, but less stress on knee. Ultreia Arlene, you are almost there. Ingrid


  5. I’m still thinking about the woman who cut in line. It would be one thing if she was about to faint and needed to be rehydrated and ordered water. Or bleeding profusely or something. But I always though it was a common courtesy to not run up and take cuts in line. I also thought it was in Robert Fulghum ‘s “All I Really Need To Know I Learned In Kindergarten” but it wasn’t. The poem does work well with walking the Camino though. The last line is the best! “Be aware of wonder.”



  6. Arlene, make sure to fuel well in the morning, as you have a lot of uphill tomorrow and pretty long stretches without any place to get something to eat. Good luck with the knee and enjoy your remaining time on the Camino.



  7. Loved the first picture of the tree – ~ Some days are easier than others but you keep on pluggin and thats what counts!


  8. Hi Arlene,

    Your attitude about the weather is so refreshing, perhaps like the fall showers. It makes me realize how much I let the rain affect my walk and my ability to enjoy the blessings it can bring. Enjoy!!



  9. Hi Arlene –
    Those steps up into Portomarin, after the long walk down and across the bridge, had me cursing! I wasn’t the only one either! From memory I don’t think you’ll find too many more ‘undulations’ – our friend Gordo’s word for whopping big hills!
    Take joy in every step –
    Jenny xo


  10. Dear Arlene, when I saw those steps, I nearly wept … but then had a ‘Camino Moment’ … a very frail looking, older, wisened Japanese woman who very slowly ‘undulated’ her way up each step, ballet-like. My eyes followed her and my body just tagged along – it was magical!! 🙂


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