Day 23 – Rabanal to Molinaseca

I left the hotel at 7:30 this morning. It was still dark, I got to try out my headlamp for the first time this Camino. The path was dark and through wooded areas. This was also my first star bath, the stars were bright above me as I began my day.


After a climb up the foggy path, I arrived at Foncebadon. I truthfully loved this village, it had been abandoned but now there is some regentrification going on. I had breakfast in the cafe and then treated myself to a second tasa de cafe con leche while I watched the fog roll up the mountain.


Onwards I climbed and climbed and climbed some more. The Camino wound its way up the mountain to the Cruz de Ferro. I climbed to the base of the cross and placed my stone as well as a stone for my deceased husband on top of the printed prayer I had written. I also placed stones friends had given me to leave for them.


Then it seemed all the way into Molinesca was on rocky, rocky paths.

At one point I felt the Camino had won. I stood on top of some volcanic rock with tears rolling down my cheeks, when a young Frenchman came along. This fellow said to me, “Allez, procedez comme suit!” as he showed me how to make my way down the steep rocky path.

Ahh, another example of the wonderful kindness of the people on Camino.


Well I finally made it to my hotel in Molinesca,  had a shower and a glass of vino tinto and the world is all wonderful again, I’m ready for tomorrow’s challenge.

Today I hiked, mountain and climbed rocks and boulders for 17 miles/27.3 kms in 8.5 hours including stops.

6 responses to “Day 23 – Rabanal to Molinaseca

  1. On the way out of town, there is on the left side a restaurant run by a French guy, good kitchen, they make a fresh trout, lightly seasoned and stuffed inside with cecina, no French fries for a change… lol. He is a bit of gigolo with single peregrinas, but otherwise ok. Love your pictures, utlreia



  2. Hang in there Arlrnr. Great photos.


  3. Dear Arlene, sorry that you had a hard day of it. Funnily enough, I remember that particular descent as one of my best days. Strange how 2 people can have such disparate experiences in such challenging landscape 🙂 You have some beautiful parts of Galicia to walk through now and I hope you enjoy it all.


  4. Hi Arlene –
    I’m with you … that descent into Molinaseca was troppo gnarly for me! Absolutely gorgeous scenery though which made up for the perilous paths.
    Cheers from a ‘happy to be 58’ year old!
    Jenny x


  5. You have some willpower girl!!! Sorry it was difficult and you shed some tears but it seems it turned out well…………..I know nothing of leaving stones and prayers at the foot of the cross but glad you did that…will ask you about that when you return.


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